Exploring Setenil de las Bodegas: A Village Carved in Stone

Setenil de las Bodegas: Where History Meets the Cliffside, The Rio Trejo Gorge: An Ancient Canvas of Nature’s Artistry, Located ten kilometers north of Ronda, in the remote reaches of Cadiz province, the Rio Trejo Gorge unfolds as a testament to the slow and patient work of nature. Over the millennia, the Rio Trejo, coursing through the soft sandstone, has sculpted a deep and captivating gorge, weaving a story of geological evolution.

In the distant past, the Rio Trejo carried a more formidable flow of water than it does today. This increased flow played a crucial role in shaping the gorge, particularly on the outer curves where natural balconies, carved by the river, now loom overhead, creating a dramatic and imposing landscape.

These naturally formed cave shelters, etched into the sandstone cliffs, served as a draw for early human inhabitants of the area. Seeking refuge and resources, these ancient people found sanctuary in the protective embrace of the gorge. As time unfolded, and civilizations rose and fell, the Rio Trejo Gorge bore witness to the eons of human history.

By the time the Romans arrived, the indigenous people had taken the initiative to carve deeper caves into the sandstone walls, fashioning individual dwellings that harmonized with the natural contours of the gorge. These man-made caves stand as silent testaments to the ingenuity and adaptability of ancient communities who made their homes within the embrace of the Rio Trejo.

Today, the Rio Trejo Gorge stands as a living canvas, telling a story of geological forces, human adaptation, and the ever-changing landscape of the earth. The echoes of the past linger in the caves, inviting modern-day visitors to contemplate the enduring connection between humanity and the natural world within this awe-inspiring gorge.

Setenil under the Moors: Where History and Geology Unite

In the annals of time, Setenil de las Bodegas, a town nestled within a stunning gorge, witnessed a chapter written by the Moors, who left an indelible mark on its landscape. The Moors, architects of fortresses and conquerors of landscapes, took control of the area and erected a castle, now in ruins, that proudly presides over the town.

Setenil, like a river following the contours of the land, has been shaped by the passage of time. The town cascades from the elevated perch near the castle down into the gorge itself. Dazzling white houses, reminiscent of the iconic architecture of the region, cling to the steep hill beneath the castle, while others project boldly from the cliff face, shadowed by a massive brow of rock. It’s a captivating town where human ingenuity meets the forces of nature.

The unique topography of Setenil is a testament to the town’s evolution with donkeys and pedestrians in mind, rather than vehicles. Navigating the narrow streets and pathways is a journey through time, where the medieval layout harmonizes with the natural contours of the gorge. As you stroll through the town, the echoes of Moorish influence resonate in the architecture, the ruins of the castle, and the seamless integration of human structures with the rugged landscape.

Setenil is not merely a town; it’s a living testament to the interplay of history and geology. The road encircling Setenil not only offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape but also serves as a practical solution to the challenge of parking in a town where the terrain itself poses unique constraints. It’s a place where the past and the present coexist, inviting visitors to explore the intricate layers of history etched into the very rock and architecture of Setenil de las Bodegas.

The Siege of Setenil and the Christian Reconquest: Tales of Struggle and Transformation

In the historical tapestry of Setenil de las Bodegas, the Christian forces faced a formidable challenge in their quest to conquer the town. Setenil proved to be a resilient bastion, with the defenders employing innovative tactics, including the early use of cannon and gunpowder. The town’s strategic importance made it a target for military campaigns, and one such siege left an enduring local legend in its wake.

According to a tale passed down through generations, Isabella of Castile, a key figure in the Christian forces, is said to have experienced a miscarriage during the intense 15-day siege of Setenil. The child was purportedly named Sebastian, and in honor of this mythical event, the Ermita of San Sebastian was erected on the town’s southwest edge.

While there is no historical basis for this poignant story, the Ermita of San Sebastian stands as a tangible tribute, offering visitors a glimpse into the cultural fabric and lore of Setenil. Situated on the southwestern fringe of the town, the Ermita is a testament to the enduring human spirit in the face of historical struggles.

The Christian reconquest of the area in 1484 marked a turning point in Setenil’s history. Initially, it might have remained a modest settlement of troglodytes, primarily engaged in almond cultivation. However, the introduction of the grapevine and olive to the agricultural mix propelled Setenil into a new phase of growth and prosperity.

As the olive groves and vineyards took root, Setenil de las Bodegas transformed from a town defined by military sieges to one shaped by the cultivation of vines and olives. This shift laid the foundation for the town’s future as it embraced agriculture, viticulture, and the distinctive landscape that characterizes Setenil to this day.

Bodega Las Monjas: A Testament to Setenil’s Vinicultural Legacy

Nestled amidst the sandstone and limestone strata of Setenil de las Bodegas, the legacy of viticulture in this unique town found its focal point in the establishment of several bodegas. The grapevine thrived in the distinctive terroir, contributing to the town’s reputation and earning it the moniker ‘de las Bodegas.’

The flourishing wine industry faced a setback with the outbreak of phylloxera in the 1860s, causing the demise of numerous bodegas in the region. However, amid the challenges, one resilient institution endured, standing as a living testament to Setenil’s vinicultural heritage—the Bodega Las Monjas.

The Bodega Las Monjas has a storied past, having once served as a nunnery before transforming into a haven for winemaking. Today, it stands as the sole surviving bodega in Setenil de las Bodegas, a guardian of the town’s vinicultural traditions. The red wine produced here, bearing the name ‘Principe Alfonso,’ pays homage to the late Principe Alfonso de Hohenlohe.

Principe Alfonso de Hohenlohe, known for his visionary creation of the Marbella Club in the early 1950s, lends his name to the red wine crafted at Bodega Las Monjas. As you venture down the road to Ronda, keep an eye out for the sign on the left, marking the entrance to this venerable bodega. It beckons visitors to delve into the rich heritage of Setenil’s winemaking, offering a taste of the history and flavors that have endured through the sands of time.

Chorizo from Setenil: A Spicy Culinary Delight

Setenil de las Bodegas, like many towns in Andalucia, has earned a well-deserved reputation for its delectable pork products, with chorizo taking center stage among the culinary offerings.

Chorizo, the flavorful and spicy pork sausage, has become a culinary emblem of Setenil. In the town’s restaurants and cafes, chorizo takes its place on the menu, tempting visitors with its rich and savory profile. The local variation of chorizo is likely to carry the distinctive flavors and character influenced by the town’s unique terroir and culinary traditions.

As you explore Setenil, particularly in the lower part of the town along Calle Cuevas del Sol, you’ll encounter a charming row of cafes and restaurants. These establishments, nestled into the cliff on a bend in the river, benefit from a natural overhang of rock that provides both shelter and shade. It’s in these welcoming establishments that you can savor the renowned chorizo from Setenil, paired with other equally notable local pastries.

For many visitors, the culinary journey through Setenil reaches its zenith in these cafes and restaurants, where the aroma of sizzling chorizo wafts through the air, enticing the taste buds with the promise of a flavorful and memorable dining experience. Setenil’s chorizo, like the town itself, embodies a blend of tradition, terroir, and culinary craftsmanship, making it a must-try for those exploring the gastronomic delights of Andalucia.

A Stroll to the Plaza de Andalucia: Exploring the Heart of Setenil

For those with a penchant for exploration and a bit of energy to spare, embarking on a walk into the older part of Setenil unveils a picturesque landscape. The journey winds through houses, many adorned with vibrant flowering planters, seamlessly integrated into the cliffs that define the town’s character. The ascent leads through steep, narrow streets, occasionally interrupted by steps, creating a charming labyrinth that converges into the diminutive Plaza de Andalucia.

The Plaza de Andalucia serves as a quaint and welcoming focal point, offering respite to weary wanderers. Here, surrounded by the charm of Setenil’s architecture, you’ll discover four bars beckoning with the promise of a well-deserved “tubo” of cerveza. Immerse yourself in the local ambiance, enjoying a refreshing drink amidst the historic surroundings.

At the summit of the plaza, you’ll encounter the tourist office—a valuable resource for further exploration and insights into the town’s history. High above, perched as a sentinel, is the Torreon del Homenaje, the remnants of a castle that whispers tales of Setenil’s past.

The walk to the Plaza de Andalucia is not just a physical journey; it’s an exploration of Setenil’s architectural treasures, its winding streets revealing the intricate tapestry of daily life against the backdrop of cliffs and historical remnants. Whether you seek a moment of tranquility in the plaza or wish to delve into the town’s historical riches, Setenil unfolds its charms one step at a time.

Tips for Visiting Setenil de las Bodegas: A Personalized Journey

Setenil de las Bodegas, with its unique charm and historical allure, is best experienced with a car, allowing you the flexibility to craft your personalized tour. Here are some recommendations for making the most of your visit:

1. Car Exploration: Setenil pairs well with other white villages in the region, creating a delightful itinerary. If you’re traveling from Seville, consider a day trip that includes Olvera, Setenil, and Ronda. The convenience of having a car allows you to explore at your own pace and make the most of the scenic routes.
2. Parking Outside the Village: When driving to Setenil, it’s advisable to park outside the village, as the interior roads are known for their narrowness and can be challenging for non-residents to navigate. Park strategically to ensure a smooth and stress-free exploration of the town.
3. Guided Tours: Opting for a guided tour is another convenient way to experience Setenil’s wonders. Here are some options to consider:
   • A highly-rated tour from Malaga that combines Setenil and Ronda for a comprehensive day out.
   • If you’re based in Seville, a dedicated tour of Setenil and Ronda is available for a hassle-free excursion.
   • Explore Setenil and Ronda from Cadiz with a guided tour that takes care of the details.
   • If you’re in Estepona, a day trip to Setenil (and Ronda) is a popular choice, and you can check out this tour from Estepona.

Whether you prefer the freedom of a self-driven adventure or the convenience of a guided tour, Setenil de las Bodegas invites you to uncover its secrets, from narrow streets to historical treasures, at your own pace.

Where to Stay in Setenil: Cave Dwellings and Unique Accommodations

Staying overnight in Setenil de las Bodegas offers a chance to immerse yourself in the tranquility of the village once the day-trippers have departed. The unique accommodations, often set in iconic “cave houses,” provide an unforgettable experience. Here are some options to consider for a serene and memorable stay:

1. Casa Bajo la Roca:
   • Enjoy your own “cave-dwelling” at this modern and comfortable two-bedroom home.
   • The balcony overlooks Setenil’s iconic cave houses, providing a picturesque setting.
   • A perfect blend of contemporary amenities and the charm of traditional cave living.
2. Casa Rural Las Cuevas de Setenil:
   • Located in the center of Setenil, this property offers a variety of rooms, including doubles and apartments.
   • The apartment with a terrace is especially noteworthy, providing a scenic spot to unwind.
   • Immerse yourself in the heart of Setenil’s historic charm with this centrally located accommodation.
3. Casa Cueva Un Rincón en la Roca:
   • A modern two-bedroom holiday home seamlessly integrated into the caves of Setenil.
   • Experience a comfortable stay with all the amenities you need in a unique cave setting.
   • Enjoy the authenticity of cave living combined with contemporary comforts.

Choosing to stay overnight in Setenil allows you to appreciate the village in a different light, surrounded by its captivating landscape without the daytime crowds. Whether you opt for a balcony overlooking the cave houses or a terrace nestled in the heart of the town, Setenil’s accommodations promise an enchanting and serene retreat.